Sunday 17 June 2012

13th June.  A mixed week; trip postponed but three Munros climbed.


I went to Scotland hoping to join a trip to Knoydart to climb Luinne Bheinn, Ladhar Bheinn and Meall Buidhe.  This was to be done from Inverie sailing from Mallaig and my route up there took me past two jewels I wanted to climb, Sgurr Thuilm and Sgurr nan Coireachan.  It was a very early start for the 330-odd mile drive and so the legs were stiff from the +5 hour confinement in the driver's seat.

Sgurr Thuilm (Peak of the rounded Hillock) 963m/3159' 189, Sgurr nan Coireachan (Peak of the Corries) 956m/3136', 202


I found the appropriate car park in Glenfinnan, readied the bike, mainly to reduce the long walk out as much as anything, and was underway pretty quickly.

The route goes under the famous viaduct shown in the Harry Potter films and it is a good, easily bikeable track to the Corryhully bothy.  The track gets rougher beyond there but although it's still cycleable, I left the bike in a small forest adjacent to the bothy. 


After kitting up, it was time to ascend the track northwards towards the start of the climb on a fine stalker's path although a decision had to be made.  Was it to be Sgurr nan Coireachan first or second?  The suggestion is that Coireachan was to be first as there is a sign (on a Scottish mountain!) pointing out that route.  My preference though, as tempting as this was, was to go anti-clockwise and climb Thuilm first so I pushed on until coming across another sign pointing out the start of the stalker's track to do it this way round. 

Although described as steep and unrelenting, the path is well-graded and being lucky enough to find the surface bone dry, this was made considerably easier than it normally must be.  After the 6.5 mile journey was also aided by doing about 2.5 miles by bike, the summit was eventually reached.  And it was a very attractive summit indeed!
High above Loch Arkaig



Although tempted to savour the fabulous views for a lot longer, the worst, most evil creature to blight these wondrous places were out in great numbers.  The hideous midge saw me as a walking feast and dined luxuriously on my blood! 
A midge's meal


I had to tear myself away from the warm, comfortable lofty position in order to march across the intervening distance between the two summits to Coireachan but the views northwards were superb.

A distant Sgurr na Ciche in a remote wilderness

It was a bumpy walk from one summit to the other and I met the only other person I saw that day as he came the opposite way to me.  We exchanged notes as I'd done what he was about to do and vice versa so I warned him of the peril on top of where he was aimed for and he warned me of the many ups and downs between me and my goal. 

The summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan

The ridge back to Sgurr Thuilm

The evil creatures weren't out in force here so although it was tempting to savour superb views over the wilderness to the north as well as the outline of Rhum and the Cuillin on Skye, the sky above me seemed to threaten thunder so I decided to whizz down as fast as I could

The path is well constructed and leaves you in no doubt as to which way to go.  Since I've never been what you might call 'proficient' as far as navigating goes, this blessing makes the route very easy to follow and despite the very steep ground falling away back to Glenn Finnan, fast progress can be made.  And of course, faster progress was made once I got down into the glenn as my trusty bike was there, untouched so I jumped aboard and whizzed out from the glenn back to my car.

Here's a summary of the actual route http://connect.garmin.com/activity/189512284

I then whizzed up to a caravan I'd booked for two nights prior to my trip to Knoydart.  I spent Thursday resting before the huge walks and climbs to come over the weekend.  The problem arose late Thursday night.  The winds were very, very strong.  Gusts of such ferocity have a habit of blowing themselves out but this one didn't.  If anything, it got stronger and stronger making the caravan an uncomfortable place to be.  Sleep was difficult due to the noise and the frequent bumps and bangs caused by structural damage around me.  I could also imagine the roughness of the boat's crossing to Knoydart and not having a strong stomach at sea, I began to wonder about the likelyhood of a cancellation. 

Friday morning came with steel-grey skies and the howling winds hadn't let up for even a second.  I had fears about the car journey to Mallaig for the sailing so had some trepidation about what was to come.  And that was no sailing!  This had me half cursing and half blessing the postponement of the Knoydart trip but nothing was to be gained by whingeing so there was only one thing to do; another Munro!

I whizzed down to Glenfinnan where I'd climbed from two nights' previously and a few miles east of there, found the spot from where to begin the assault on Gulvain.  Gulvain looked marvelous two days ago and is also a mountain that can be climbed with the assistance of a bike. 

Gulvain (either gaorr, filth or gaoir, noise) 987m/3757', 156

The vehicle in front of me belonged to the Scotsman I'd met between Thuilm and Coireachan two days ago and we had a long natter about today's climb.  The weather had changed and become more 'Scottish' if you will.  The bone-dry ground was soaking up the liberal quantities of wetness falling out of the sky.  It wasn't going to be a pleasant trek but since I was here, it was going to be done!

The track up to the base of the climb is nowhere near as smooth or as easy as the one to Corryhully bothy but it at least reduced the walking distance in and out so had to be tackled.  The track is rough and bouldery but reasonably flat.  Again, I stowed the bike at the foot of the slope and set off up the zig-zagging stalker's track leading inexorably to the summit.  Sadly, I can't describe the views or the surrounding peaks from this summit as despite being June, it was bitterly cold in the very strong winds at the top and it was very misty.  My hands were numb and sore so it was just one quick snap before turning round and rushing down.

Summit, Gulvain

Now I realise that could have been taken anywhere but here's a summary of my route taken from my Garmin Forerunner watch; http://connect.garmin.com/activity/189717529

No comments:

Post a Comment